I know you guys wonder about these aspects frequently when it’s about replica watches. Every customer loyal to the replica hobby, especially a new one, wants to know what to expect from a replica watch. In the same context, people frequently ask me about the different price ranges of replica watches. So many dealers offer the same imitation at so different prices, that it’s getting harder and harder to remain lucid.
So, I decided to put down all that I know about imitations. Throughout my experience in the replica hobby, I think I already know a thing or two about their quality and its relation to their price and lifespan. I’ll try to bring a little light for you, so you can understand better what you pay for every time you get a new imitation. The temptation of getting the cheapest version is always high. But, as everyone knows, cheap is not always synonymous with good. Or is it?!
So, here is a clear conclusion of what I know about replica watches. I want to let you know that there might be some error margins in my conclusion, so don’t judge me toughly. At least, the replica realm will become somewhat clearer for you. And in case there will remain some points uncovered, let me know in the comments below or directly via email.
Quality grades and their relation to the price and technical profile
To begin with, let’s make it clear that we will break all replica watches down into three main categories: AAAAA Clones, AAA clones, and A clones. You already intuit more or less the quality degree for every segment. Some call the A clones- Chinese replicas, while the AAAAA ones are usually known as Swiss imitations. No matter the term you use, the point is that the AAAAA grade imitations are the best while the A ones are the…. let’s say, least decent, to avoid any kind of frustration.
Prices
Let’s take a genuine watch as a reference to compare prices. Let it be a Hublot Classic Fusion model, whose original average price is ranging between 4k and 50k (and even higher, if you didn’t know). This means that an AAAAA imitation will be around 1,200$. Don’t be surprised by the price. It’s a reasonable price considering the technical aspect and the similarity with the genuine model. I’ll cover it all in detail later in this post.
For the AAA-grade imitation, customers will have to pay more or less than 650$. It’s a readable price for this quality degree.
And the cheapest version, the A grade, is around $200.
In this context, don’t expect a 200$ imitation to perform like one of the 1k bucks. The technical profiles differ a lot between these price ranges and logically, a more expensive one will run much better than a cheaper one.
Time accuracy
I bet you ask yourself what is the accuracy difference between these imitations. The admissible threshold for the genuine Hublot is -3/+5 sec per day, certified by COSC. The AAAAA-grade imitation should be around -5/+6 sec per day. The acceptable variation of an AAA-grade imitation is +-5 sec per day, while the A-grade imitations provide +/-10 sec per day. All these variations are acceptable within the COSC certification. Any critical deviation from these approximate references tells about a movement error and a low-quality movement imitation.
Materials
I will predominantly refer to the stainless steel grade here, as it is impossible to specify the quality specs of each material. In the scenario that the genuine Hublot Classic Fusion is made of 904L stainless steel, the AAAAA imitations are also of 904L steel. In contrast, AAA and A imitations usually come in 316l stainless steel, which is not a bad option, but it’s different from the genuine.
Some Hublot genuine watches come in titanium material. Both AAAAA grade and AAA grade imitations can also be available in titanium, while the price does not differ from the steel replica version. A-grade imitations are unlikely to be made of titanium, no matter what the dealer promises you.
Crystal
Three upper grades offer sapphire crystal for the imitations. The A-grade watches come in mineral glass. And please, stop asking me via emails if a $150 imitation can have a sapphire glass. No, it can’t.
Dimensions
Currently, all imitations, regardless of the grade, follow the same case diameters as the genuine models. At least, I haven’t come across any imitation with major errors in case dimensions lately. Obviously, it depends on where you get your imitation. If you get it somewhere in Bangladesh, I don’t exclude that you find one with severe fluctuations in dimensions.
There might be slight deviations in the replica weight. I haven’t seen such cases with AAAAA and AAA-grade replicas. Mostly, I encounter them in A-type fake watches.
Dial
Obviously, the AAAAA-grade fakes are the best at imitating the genuine dial. These replicas are usually identical in details, writing, and fonts. The AAA versions come with a 90% similarity, while the A ones are about 60-70% close to the authentic models.
Life expectancy
This is another relevant question giving headaches to many watch lovers. I can only vaguely answer this question because it all depends on how frequently you wear your imitation and how you take care of it. In general terms, in the ideal scenario (with regular cleaning and accurate handling) a genuine Hulot will last a lifetime. So will the AAAAA-grade imitation. The lifespan of an AAA-grade timepiece will be up to 5 years, while an A-grade fake will serve you for about 1-2 years.
Final thoughts
That’s what, in short, I can tell you about the different grades of imitations and their specifics. Take this instruction as a general one and remember that there are plenty of factors influencing their life span. Also, be accurate with the sources you buy from. Sometimes, a scam dealer will try to sell you an A replica at the price of an AAAAA one. So, it’s critical to know where to buy them from.
If you want to reduce the time on finding a trusted source, try our AAAReplica store. Here we are, eager to assist you with any type of question and offer a wide spectrum of imitations to serve you long and reliably.